Thursday, November 4, 2021

Tallgrass Prairie, Cows, and Dodge City

Russ surprised me with an unexpected stop between Kansas City and Dodge City. He did some research and found the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, near Emporia, Kansas. We did stop first for lunch at Casa Ramos in Emporia. We wanted to go to Radius Brewing, but sadly it was closed on Mondays. The Mexican food was good, so no problem. The Tallgrass Prairie was quiet and cold. We managed to walk before the rain started, and had a short trip to the visitors center. I bet in the spring it really shines. This place represents 80% of the remaining tallgrass prairie in the US. Only 4% of the original prairie remains. Most of it is in the Flint Hills area of Kansas because the ground was not suitable for plowing, so the prairie was used only for grazing, which actually is needed to fully preserve the ecosystem. They still graze buffalo and cattle on the land today. The rest of the tallgrass was plowed under for crops. It was a lovely surprise for me to have Russ find such a wild place to visit during our moving day.

We had Starbucks breakfast on our last day in Kansas City.

A post-it display at the Starbucks. Why?

I really liked this small (but big for the area) town.

Russ got a SALAD!

The stone wall was impressive, too.

We didn't see any bison. They were on the other side of the hill.

The bison enclosure.

The sound of the wind dominated the land.

Three-level limestone barn with wagon ramps.

In the RV parking area.

Dodge City started off with shit. Cow shit. As we came into town, several loaded livestock trailers passed us. When we parked and got out of the car, it was clear that those cows had digestive issues. It became obvious to us that cows were standard fare in this town, because of the two processing plants that kill about 10,000 cows per day between them. I don't blame the cows for losing their shit.

The next morning, rain was beginning to fall and would continue for our first two days. We had a leisurely morning and made it into town for lunch at the Central Station Bar and Grill. Following lunch, we drove out the other side of town to the Santa Fe Trail Tracks. The Santa Fe Trail was a purely commercial affair, no Oregon style trail settlers, just goods moving from Franklin, Missouri to Santa Fe, New Mexico. There were so many heavily loaded wagons from 1821 to 1880 that the tracks are wide and can be seen from the air. The trail ceased to be used when the railroad connection was completed. As we walked the short trail with wooden bridges over the track areas, a meadowlark was singing. It felt lonely, ironic considering how many passed over this ridge.

The bar was in the old railway station.

Russ prepares to attack his sandwich.

It was a classic railway station building.

The pull off was well marked, but we were glad to not have the trailer on the steep entrance.

Looking over the Arkansas river. It was nearly dry.

The trail went across the top of the hill, avoiding the deep mud.

Theoretically, you can see tracks perpendicular to the wooden path.

We went to the Boot Hill Museum, of course, because that is what you do in Dodge City. Someone was careful to save a lot of items from the town's history; the collection was impressive. They had built a replica of the 1870 Front Street and filled it with photos and artifacts. The cemetery is still there, and they moved the old Fort Dodge jailhouse onto the museum grounds.


Part of the cemetery.

1870 Front Street.

Inside the main museum building.

Tourists are an important part of the local economy.

We ate dinner at Dodge City Brewing. I was impressed with the beer, the pizza, and the photography on the walls. Someone knows how to use a camera. The place stayed pretty full of what mostly seemed to be locals, so we picked a good place. Russ also bought a T-Shirt with their awesome logo.

On the corner of 3rd and Spruce.

Good beer. Great logo design.

He ate the whole thing!

Our final day started with coffee and more cows. Breakfast was at Red Beard Coffee. I think it was my favorite food spot in Dodge City, just a comfortable coffeehouse. After breakfast, we drove out to the livestock overlook at the edge of town to see the two packing plants and the feedlot that supports them. The field (unrelated to the packing plants) in front of the parking loop had a small group of young cows grazing. They all stopped and approached the fence to interact with us. They seemed confused. It's sad to think that their fate is not far off from the thousands of cow filling the feedlot below them.

We took our cow photos and moved on to the chores. I did some quick food shopping, we took the truck through a car wash, Russ washed the lunch dishes, and I did laundry. Dinner was at King Buffet, a Chinese style buffet, which was pretty good. It's been a while since we ate Chinese food.

Sunrise over the (now dry) Arkansas River from our RV Park.

They take decor seriously here in Kansas.

We only found this because it's across from the brewery.

Tin and fall themes make for great ambience.

My breakfast biscuit sandwich and pumpkin latte.

You can see the Excel plant behind the center cow.

Russ appreciates the aroma.

They are watching us.

The low area was a sea of cows, but it doesn't show with the sun like this.

Car wash. It was needed after the shit storm.

Russ pays for the wash.

King Buffet.

We have a short drive tomorrow to the Shortgrass Prairie. Should be a nice day, even though it is definitely getting colder. We were in the low thirties last night. I'm glad to be in our warm trailer.


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